Why Aftercare Is Non-Negotiable
Your results are 50% my skill and 50% your aftercare. Keeping brows dry, avoiding picking, and applying thin ointment layers for two weeks directly determines pigment retention.
Here’s something I tell every client: Your results are 50% my skill and 50% your aftercare.
I can create the most beautiful strokes in the world, but if you don’t follow proper aftercare, you could end up with patchy color, premature fading, or (worst case) an infection.
The good news? Aftercare isn’t complicated. You just need to follow the rules for about two weeks, and then you’re free.
Let me walk you through exactly what to expect and what to do at each stage of healing. For a quick reference guide, see my Pre & Post Care page, and learn more about the microblading service itself.
Just had your procedure? Use the Interactive Healing Timeline to see exactly where you are in the healing process and what to expect today.
The 4-State Healing Model
Understanding these four distinct healing states will save you a lot of unnecessary worry. Every client goes through all four - and yes, they can feel dramatic. But trust me when I say: this is 100% normal.
STATE 1: Days 1-3 (DARK/BOLD)
What’s happening: Your fresh brows will look 40-50% darker than the final result. This is totally normal - the pigment oxidizes when exposed to air and looks more intense initially.
Day 0 (Appointment Day):
- Color looks bold (sometimes startlingly so)
- Slight redness, tenderness, warmth
- Blot gently every 30 minutes for the first 4-6 hours with a clean tissue or the wipes I provide. This removes lymph fluid that would otherwise dry on top of your brows and create a thick crust.
- Don’t touch with unwashed hands
- Skip all face makeup today
- No gym, no sweating
Day 1:
- Slightly darker than immediately after
- Skin starting to close
- Possible redness around outline (normal - due to fluid/blood)
- Hair strokes still visible but feels slightly harder when moving eyebrows
- Care: Dab with damp paper towel, apply thin layer of Aquaphor, no face makeup
Day 2:
- Starting to close off
- Pigment/fluids hardening on surface (NOT scabs - calcified pigment)
- Lightening between lines already visible
- Care: Minimal intervention, light Aquaphor application
Day 3:
- Dramatically lighter than days 1-2
- Hard to touch but softening slightly
- Uneven color spots normal (skin healing at different rates)
- Care: Morning clean with wet paper towel, reapply Aquaphor
STATE 2: Days 4-7 (FLAKING)
What’s happening: This is when your skin starts shedding. Scabs form, color looks uneven, and it gets ITCHY. DO NOT SCRATCH.
Day 4:
- Continuing to lighten
- Dry and itchy (increase Aquaphor applications)
- Skin starting to peel
- Care: Apply Aquaphor every 3-4 hours
Day 5:
- More flaking begins
- Itchy and dry
- Color appears to be lifting (it’s actually still in your skin)
- Some pieces starting to come off
Day 6:
- Significant outer layer loss
- More flaking than previous days
- Uneven light spots (new skin healing over pigment)
- Arches may look slightly uneven (temporary)
Day 7:
- Soft to touch now
- Minimal scabbing (mostly hardened pigment outer layer)
- Foggy appearance (new skin healing over pigment - NOT pigment loss)
- Still some pieces potentially hanging on
Critical reminder: I cannot stress this enough - DO NOT PICK. Picking off scabs will pull out pigment and create patchy spots. Let those flakes fall off on their own, even if it’s driving you crazy.
STATE 3: Days 8-14 (GHOSTING)
What’s happening: This is the phase where most clients freak out. Don’t panic - this is 100% normal.
Your brows may look very light, almost like the procedure “didn’t work.” Strokes might seem barely visible. This is called “ghosting” because the pigment is settling beneath your epidermis. It’s still there - it’s just hiding under new skin cells.
What you’ll notice:
- Brows look dramatically lighter or “disappeared”
- Strokes barely visible in some areas
- You might think it didn’t take
What to do:
- Trust the process. The color WILL come back.
- You can reduce ointment to once daily
- Still avoid heavy sweating, swimming, saunas
- Be patient - this is temporary
Sarah’s reassurance: I’ve guided 3,500+ clients through this exact phase at my studio in Shorewood, IL. Every single one who followed aftercare saw their color return. Don’t panic.
STATE 4: Weeks 4-6 (SETTLED)
What’s happening: Deep tissue healing completes and your true color emerges - typically settling at 30-40% of the initial darkness. This is your actual result.
What you’ll notice:
- Color returns and evens out
- Strokes look crisp and natural
- Some strokes may have faded more than others (this is why we do a touch-up)
- Final result becomes visible around week 4-6
What to do:
- Normal face washing is fine
- Apply SPF to brows when going outside
- Schedule your touch-up appointment for the 6-8 week mark
What’s Normal vs. What’s Concerning
Dark color, flaking, itching, patchiness, and ghosting are all normal healing. Contact your artist if you see spreading redness, pus, fever, or swelling that worsens after day 3.
Totally Normal (Don’t Panic)
- Dark color right after: It’s 40-50% darker than final - this is normal
- Itching: Means healing is happening
- Flaking/peeling: Expected and necessary
- Color looking patchy during healing: It evens out
- Strokes “disappearing” during ghosting (days 8-14): They’re still there, just hidden under new skin
- Final color lighter than fresh: This is the actual result
- Some strokes lighter than others: This is what the touch-up is for
Contact Me If You See
- Excessive redness spreading beyond the brow area
- Pus or green/yellow discharge (not clear lymph fluid)
- Fever
- Severe swelling that doesn’t subside
- Signs of allergic reaction (rash beyond the brow area, difficulty breathing)
These are rare, but they need attention. When in doubt, send me a photo.
The Complete “Avoid” List
During the first 10-14 days, steer clear of:
Water & Heat
- Long showers with steam
- Swimming (pools, ocean, lakes - all of them)
- Hot tubs and saunas
- Steam rooms
- Letting shower water hit your face directly
Sweat
- Intense workouts
- Hot yoga
- Running
- Anything that makes you drip sweat
Products
- Makeup on or around the brows
- Retinol, glycolic acid, or any exfoliating acids on your face
- Vitamin C serums on your face
- Anti-aging products
- Acne treatments
Other
- Picking, scratching, or rubbing
- Sleeping on your face
- Tanning beds
- Direct, prolonged sun exposure
- Botox (wait until fully healed)
- Facials or peels
Common Mistakes I See
After 3,500+ clients, I’ve seen it all. Here are the mistakes that hurt results the most:
1. “I Thought More Ointment Would Help”
The mistake: Slathering on thick layers of aftercare ointment
Why it’s bad: Too much ointment suffocates the skin and prevents proper healing. It can also cause the pigment to “sweat out.”
The fix: Rice-grain sized amount per brow, applied in a thin layer. Your brows should look slightly moisturized, not greasy.
2. “I Couldn’t Resist Picking That Flake”
The mistake: Peeling off loose scabs
Why it’s bad: You pull out pigment with the scab, creating patchy spots
The fix: Let it fall off naturally, even if it’s hanging by a thread and driving you crazy
3. “I Didn’t Think One Workout Would Matter”
The mistake: Going to the gym, doing hot yoga, or having intense sweaty sessions
Why it’s bad: Salt from sweat can push pigment out before it sets. The heat and moisture create an environment for bacteria.
The fix: Take a full 10-14 day break from intense exercise. Light walking is fine.
4. “I Got Them Wet by Accident”
The mistake: Letting water hit the brows, taking a bath, getting caught in rain
Why it’s bad: Water can dilute the pigment before it’s set. Dirty water (pools, lakes) introduces bacteria.
The fix: When showering, face away from the water. If they get wet, gently pat dry immediately with a clean tissue.
5. “I Forgot About Sunscreen”
The mistake: Going in the sun without SPF on healed brows
Why it’s bad: UV rays break down pigment faster than anything else
The fix: Once healed, apply SPF 30+ to your brows every time you go outside. This is forever, not just during healing.
Frequently Asked Questions
When can I wash my face normally?
You can fully wash your face (including brows) after about 10-14 days when the surface is healed. During healing, just be gentle around the brow area.
Can I get my brows wet in the shower?
For the first 10 days, try to avoid it. Face away from the shower head. If water does hit them, gently pat dry immediately - don’t rub.
When can I work out again?
Light walks are fine from day 1. Avoid anything that makes you sweat heavily for 10-14 days. After that, ease back in but wipe sweat away from brows during exercise.
What if I accidentally picked a scab?
Don’t panic. Apply a little ointment to the area and stop picking. It may result in a lighter spot there, but that’s exactly what the touch-up is for.
How long until I see the final color?
The true final color emerges around 4-6 weeks after your appointment. Everything before that is still healing.
Why do my brows look so dark right after?
Oxidation! The pigment darkens when exposed to air. Your brows look 40-50% darker than the final result during State 1 (Days 1-3). They’ll lighten significantly - trust the process.
When should I schedule my touch-up?
Book it for 6-8 weeks after your initial appointment. Your brows need to be fully healed so I can see what actually needs touching up.
What aftercare products do you recommend?
I provide a specific ointment with your appointment. If you run out, Aquaphor (unscented) or a specialized PMU aftercare balm works. Avoid anything with fragrance or active ingredients.
Can I use my normal skincare routine?
Avoid retinol, acids (glycolic, salicylic, lactic), and exfoliating products on your entire face for 10-14 days. These can migrate to the brow area and affect healing.
After Healing: Long-Term Brow Care
Once you’re past the 4-6 week healing period, here’s how to keep your brows looking great for years:
Always Use SPF
This is the #1 thing you can do to extend the life of your microblading. UV exposure fades pigment faster than anything else. Apply SPF 30+ to your brows whenever you go outside.
Be Careful with Skincare
Retinol, chemical peels, and exfoliating acids will speed up fading. If you use these products, try to avoid the brow area or expect to need more frequent touch-ups.
Schedule Annual Touch-Ups
Most clients come back once a year for a refresh. This keeps the strokes crisp and the color vibrant. It’s a quicker appointment than the initial session - $300 at my studio.
Watch for Fading Signs
When you notice the color becoming significantly lighter or strokes looking less defined, it’s time for a refresh. Don’t wait until they’re completely gone.
You’ve Got This
Aftercare sounds like a lot, but it really comes down to a few simple rules:
- Keep them clean and dry
- Apply thin layers of ointment
- Don’t pick
- Avoid sweat, sun, and swimming for 2 weeks
- Be patient during the ugly duckling phase
Follow these, and your brows will heal beautifully.
If you have questions during healing, contact me anytime - I respond to every message. Include a photo if you’re worried about something.
Whether you’re visiting from Naperville, Aurora, Joliet, Lemont, Montgomery, or Shorewood, I make sure every client leaves with a clear aftercare plan and my direct contact info. Healing questions don’t wait for business hours, and neither do I.
And remember: the touch-up is part of the process. Even if something looks a bit off during healing, that’s exactly what the second appointment is for.
Want to know more about what to expect? Check out my day-by-day guide to the microblading process or read about what microblading actually feels like.
Track your healing: Use the Interactive Healing Timeline
